Home & Garden

Attics and basements are the rarest place in our home which we visit. By the time of cleaning, attics and basements can be very tough to clean. Here are some tips which might be useful for you.

A THOROUGH TREATMENT once or twice a year is needed for attics and basements to be put in order, swept, and dusted. This is the time to discard the accumulation of worth¬less stuff that tends to move toward the opposite poles of the house.
There is a certain glamour to attics, especially old cluttered ones, with their lure of hidden treasure, rare stamps, papers, or antiques. Let’s ascend—up steps or ladder—taking the vacuum cleaner along.

THE ATTIC. This is like a moon station, remote and weird; it suffers great extremes of climate, frigid cold in the winter and stifling heat during the summer months. Dust filters down from it as from a distant star to dim the floors and furniture below. Strange objects infest it. Though seldom visited, it seems to have a life of its own because the things you remem¬ber distinctly storing in one place will frequently be found in another, or strewn all over the floor. This would be the work of the young, who infiltrate a house everywhere.

THE MAJOR PROBLEM is to rout the dust and achieve order. Here is where you really need your vacuum cleaner, but is there a floor outlet up there? If not, you can use an extension. In this case an ordinary one will do. Or you can have your vacuum cleaner man make one for you to match the cord you have. (If you do not have a vacuum cleaner, brushes and brooms will do.)

CLEANING THE WINDOWS FIRST is a good idea be¬cause you will then have more light for sorting and stacking, while using your vacuum brushes to devour the dust.

JUNK IS A FIRE HAZARD. If you have cartons handy, sort it out with the next church rummage sale in mind and get rid of all the worthless stuff you will never get around to using. Be utterly ruthless in this, otherwise things will keep moving down from the attic to litter the rest of the house. Store what you want to keep, carefully, in cardboard boxes and, if you have woolens stored in chest or trunk, examine them for moth damage and make sure that they are well pro¬tected with mothballs or para crystals. Directions will be on the box or tin of the insect assassinator you select.

CLUTTER ON THE STAIRS. When you finish, descend carefully, making sure that there is nothing left on the stair¬way to constitute a safety hazard. If yours was a winter ascent, you may be wondering about providing insulation up there. If summer, you could be thinking of the advantages of an attic ventilating fan. But probably you visited the upper reaches of your house in the spring or fall. In the Pluto-ish region under the house, temperatures are more equable than in the attic. If summer has begun it is really nice and cool.

From this article we have learned some useful tips on cleaning the basements. Swept and dust the attics and basements or vacuum cleaned at least twice a year. Clean the window first is the good idea. Get rid of the junks to give more space for storage of other things which you don’t use anymore.

 

Cleaning House

No matter how much time you spend on cleaning you house, the dust comes back the very next day and all your efforts seem to have gone down the drain. Apart from the outdoor sources, there are many indoor sources of house dust as well, like skin particles, human hair, cloth fibers, dog hair, insect parts, and so on. Whatever be the source of the dust, you need to take steps to reduce it as much as much as possible.

Strategies To Reduce Dust From Your Home

It’s a common complaint. Just a few days after a thorough house cleaning, that unsightly dust is back, settling on every surface in your house. Dust can also contribute to respiratory allergy suffering. Although the visible dust is most obvious, health scientists now say it is the very small invisible particulates and noxious gases we should be most worried about. What’s the answer? Here are seven proven ways to greatly reduce dust and breathe easier in your home.

Way To Reduce Dust In Your House

USE DAMP RAGS While dusting the house avoid using feather dusters and dry rags as they only tend to spread the dust. Thus always use damp rags or damp cloth as they help to attract the gather the dust.

PET CARE If you have a pet at home then bath and brush your pet on regularly basis as pets are a probable source of dust in the house. And always clean the paws of your pet whenever it comes back from a walk outside to avoid entering the dust with hits paws.

CLOTH STORAGE Always keep your clothing in drawers and keep the closet door closed to reduce the chances of dust settling on your cloths.

How to Get Rid of Dust

Vacuuming your house with a special filter will get rid of dust. Vacuum regularly those things in your house that are covered with fabric because fabrics tend to collect dust. If you have carpets, keep those vacuumed as often as possible because carpet collects more dust than anything else in your house.

Rotate bedding weekly.

Your cozy bed is a major dust distributor. The bedding collects skin flakes, sheds its own fibers and sends out a puff of dust every time you roll over. To minimize the fallout, wash sheets and pillowcases weekly. Items that aren’t machine washable don’t need weekly trips to the dry cleaners.

Take cushions out for a beating.

Upholstery fabric not only sheds its own fibers but also absorbs dust that settles on it. You raise puffs of dust every time you sit down. The only way to eliminate upholstery dust is to buy leather- or vinyl-covered furniture. But there are three ways to reduce dust on fabric.

Reduce the Dust Mite Population in Your Home

Change the flooring. Carpet is a big culprit in creating a perfect haven for dust mite populations. If your family is suffering from dust mite allergies or asthma, removing wall-to-wall carpeting should be a number one priority, especially in the bedroom zone.

Vacuum regularly. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to clean floors and mattresses regularly. Micro-filters are important because they help in ensuring that the dust is not simply recirculated in the air. Keep your vacuum serviced to maintain its condition.

Dust is dirt, dead skin cells, dander, fibers from various fabrics, bug parts, and dust mites, the little critters that live and breed in the mix. The stuff comes into your house and stays there.

There is nothing worse than seeing your prized possesion with a spot or a mark on it and you do not know how it got there or what to do. This article will help you by giving you tips, suggestions and good ideas to take care of this beloved object.

To start with, your hand made Oriental rug or your kilim can survive for decades depending on a number of factors. One determining factor is the quality of the rug you have, if it is a good quality one and you treat it with care, it will surely last a lot more than if your rug or kilim is of an inferior quality. Moreover, there is large number of damages which typically affect rugs, by learning about them and taking the necessary measures to prevent them from happening you will ensure a long lasting life for your treasured rug.

The most common damages are the following ones:
Water damage: It is one of the most frequent. People usually place potted plants over rugs. Once the plant is watered the pot leaks and the rug under the pot remains constantly wet. In a few weeks the foundation of the rug weakens in such a way that it can be easily broken into pieces. So, if you are going to place a potted plant avoid putting it directly over the rug, you can use a stool or some kind of support so as to keep the humidity of the plant away from the rug. Just in case the advice comes too late and you notice that the rug is already wet you should remove it as soon as possible, clean it and allow it to dry completely to avoid damages in the foundation. Another problem related to water is triggered by damp floors (often if the floor is made of cement). Maybe the floor seems to be dry, but just a bit of moisture can produce the proliferation of micro-organisms which can spoil the foundation of the rug.

Moth damage: These insects do not eat rugs, but their larvae consume the fibers and even the knots of the rugs. They prefer to live in areas under furniture, where it is not always vacuumed or in areas with little traffic. In order to avert this, vacuum the surface once a week and several times a year vacuum the back side, the pad and the floor. For areas which are difficult to reach with the vacuum cleaner spray a proper household insecticide for moths. Besides, do not rely on moth crystals, balls or flakes since they are not effective to kill moths, they just repel them.
Dogs and cats damage: Puppies usually chew rugs. To avoid this sprinkle some moth flakes under the rug. Likewise, cats love sharpening their claws on rugs. Though it sounds a bit absurd, the best prevention is to try to control the cats’ activities.
Sun damage: The light of the sun can affect and diminish the colors of the rug. If this is your case, try to avoid direct exposure to sunlight or rotate the rug so as to make the color equal in its entire surface.
Vacuum cleaner damage: Cleaning your rug using a vacuum cleaner is a positive practice but be cautious if your cleaner is equipped with a power brush since a raking effect can be caused on the surface. It is better to use just the plain vacuum nozzle.
Chemical damage: Sometimes rug cleaners bleach the fringe before delivering it. Although the fringe looks nice after that, the process and the substance used weakens the fibers destroying them little by little. If you still want to have white fringes you could dilute the solution used for bleaching.
Storage: If you are about to store your rug, make sure you clean it, spray it with some insecticide and wrap it in plastic before doing it. Most kinds of damages are not difficult to repair, but prevention is better (cheaper and easier) than restoration. If you follow these hints as well as inspecting your rug often and cleaning it only when it is needed your rug will be part of your house for ages.

If you do get a spot or an area that is spilled upon here is what you can do:
Blot, never scrub spots on a rug. Scrubbing can damage the nap on a carpet. Test all spotting products in an inconspicuous area first and look for color change. If the color bleeds or you are unsure how to proceed consult a professional. Remove as much of the spill as possible before adding spotting products. Work from the outer edges of a spot to the center. Never saturate a spotting area with a liquid. Only spot with small amounts of cleaning products. Drying small areas can be accomplished with a hair dryer with the heat setting off.

Spotting Guide
Beer – Use mild detergent followed by rinsing with vinegar solution, rinse with water
Blood – Blot with ammonia solution followed by vinegar solution, rinse with water
Candle wax – scrape excess off, cover are with paper and iron on low setting, then spot with dry solvent.
Chocolate – spot with dry cleaning solvent and let dry, apply mild detergent, rise with water.
Coffee – Blot with mild detergent and rinse with water.
Egg – Spot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Fingernail polish – Blot with dry cleaning solvent

Fruit juices, jam & jelly – Blot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Grease – Spot with dry cleaning solvent, spot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Gum – Scrape off excess and apply dry cleaning solvent, apply mild detergent if needed and rinse with water.
Ink – Spot with dry cleaning solvent, spot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Milk – Spot with mild detergent rinse with vinegar solution, rinse with water, spot with dry cleaning solvent if needed
Paint – Apply dry cleaning solvent followed by mild detergent, rinse with water
Soft drinks – Spot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Soot – Spot with mild detergent, rinse with water, if not removed, spot with dry cleaning fluid
Tea – Spot with mild detergent, rinse with water
Urine – Spot with mild detergent, rinse with vinegar solution, and rinse with water, repeat process if needed
Vomit – Spot with mild detergent, vinegar solution, rinse with water
Wine – Fresh wine spills use white wine to spot followed by mild detergent and rinse with water.

If in doubt,consult your local rug professional.they can clean it for you.

Take care of you rug!

Meal moths attack stored grain products or household foodstuff. Once established in food, insect populations can increase and infest vulnerable material throughout the home, apartment, or storage area. Some adult moths do fly into the home through open door or windows, but most are carried inside from outdoor storage or in packaged goods or groceries.

Everyone’s home is vulnerable. However, those who do not store food properly have the greatest problems. Spilled or exposed foods attract the insects and increase the chance of infestation. Foods that are not tightly sealed, especially those maintained for long periods of time, are particularly susceptible to infestation.

Prevention and Control of Meal Moths

Sanitation is the primary method for avoiding problems with stored product pests with good practices. Some points to remember include:

* Spilling or leaving food exposed (as a common practice) attracts and harbors these pests. Avoid these practices and you will probably never have this problem.

* Cookie crumbs and bits of dried pet food may fall behind furniture or under appliances where children play or pets are fed. Toaster crumbs and crumbs from food preparation fall into cracks beside the stove or refrigerator. Stored grains, etc., may also fall behind storage drawers. Pull out appliances and drawers occasionally and thoroughly vacuum these out-of-the-way locations.

* Most cupboard pests can chew their way into cardboard boxes or plastic sacks. Place stored materials into tight-fitting containers, preferably of glass or other tough material. If an infestation should occur under these conditions, it probably will be limited to a single jar.

* Use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris form cracks and corners of storage areas. Also clean the nearby areas with very hot water and a strong detergent solution Allow to dry thoroughly.

* If you are not successful on your own than you should contact a reputable pest control operator (exterminator). The situation may be too far out of control at this point. The adults and the laying of eggs will just continue the problem.

Pest control will always be a problem in any living environment. As long as there is food to feed and eggs hatching out of the flour when stored too long, you will have a problem. Take control before it becomes greater than it is necessary.

Every year families are confronted with the dilemma of whether to buy a live Christmas tree, or to invest in an artificial one. For some, the annual quest for “Thee Perfect Tree” is tradition, an important ritual to usher in the season, and to disregard this ceremony would be tantamount to boycotting Santa Claus. Others appreciate the convenience of a well-formed (albeit man-made) tree waiting in storage for them year to year. While it ultimately comes down to personal taste, there are some definite pros and cons one might want to consider before weighing in on the matter.

First, there is the question of cost. When they first came on the scene, artificial trees commanded staggering costs in comparison to live trees. However, consumers saw the price as an investment, since they would not be buying a tree again for several years. In that way, an artificial tree probably comes up less expensive in the end. Nowadays the cost of an artificial tree can vary from about the same you’d pay in a live tree lot, to several hundred dollars. Materials and size also account for the asking price.

The same can be said for live trees. Depending on whether you choose to cut down your own tree or buy a live, ball and burlapped, or otherwise containerized tree that can be planted after the holidays, you may pay anywhere from a few bucks to a few hundred. The disadvantage here is that you must still buy a new tree year after year—unless, of course you choose to decorate an outdoor tree. Tree species and size will also make a difference to your pocketbook.

The next subject up for debate is which choice is the most environmentally sound. Again, it all depends on the way you look at it. While artificial trees are reusable for several years, they are ultimately a petroleum-based product, the manufacturing of which takes its toll on the environment. Once an artificial tree is discarded there is little if any use for it, and most find their ways into landfills.

Live trees benefit the environment from beginning to end. Most are raised on farms, where they are tended for five to sixteen years before they are harvested. During these years they absorb carbon dioxide and other gases from the air and supply oxygen. Every acre of trees planted meets the oxygen needs of eighteen people! Christmas tree farms usually occupy stretches of land that won’t support other crops, and they provide scenic byways. Furthermore, these trees stabilize soil, protect water supplies, and provide refuge for wildlife. For every tree harvested, one to three saplings are planted. After the holidays are over live trees continue to benefit the environment when they are recycled into mulch or compost. Some creative individuals have also gathered Christmas trees and used them in various other ways benefiting their communities (see http://www.christmastree.org).

A third point up for consideration is the aesthetic. There can be no argument, artificial trees are manufactured to be balanced and beautiful—there is no need for trimming, nor for worrying about the tree dying before the big day arrives. Neither will you need to vacuum up fallen needles every other day, or change the water. Your hands won’t get sappy from touching the branches either. There are a variety of sizes and styles, modeled after a variety of tree species to suit every taste. There are even trees equipped with lights, so that cords are not seen snaking through the branches!

In contrast, a live tree takes more work to look beautiful, but there is nothing that compares to the natural thick pine scent it gives your home! One whiff, and you feel good enough to bring out that vacuum for the twelfth time that day…

A final word concerns safety and storage issues. Bringing a live tree into your home and outfitting it with electric lights can be a real safety hazard, especially if the tree is allowed to dry up. Artificial trees are generally made from flame-resistant materials that require little care. What they do require is a storage space to spend the bulk of the year. If you have a decent-sized basement, this may be no problem. Many people actually store their trees fully decorated to save time! But if you live in a tight space without storage, you may have no choice but to opt for the more “disposable” option of a real tree.

As you can see, when it comes to fake or fir, the choice is personal. Hopefully we’ve given you some things to think about to help you decide the best solution for this annual dilemma.

Staining is a popular way to bring your garage floor to life.  You can hire professionals to come in and stamp the concrete to give the floor a unique pattern, like marble, stepping stone or even hardwood design, or you can do it yourself.  Choose a stain color that you like and a strong, heavy sealant.  You can turn your old dirty garage floor into a beautiful, shiny, professional looking work area. First, test the floor for sealant.  When you pour water on it, it will soak in if there is no sealant.  If there is a sealant, your water will bead up and it will not soak in.  If there is sealant present, you will have to get an industrial sealant remover and remove the sealant before you can stain it. Day 1:  If there is no sealant or if the sealant is removed, you are ready to clean.  After sweeping and vacuuming the floor, you will need to degrease it.  Use a strong degreaser and follow the directions on the container.  Rinse the floor really well before moving on to the next step and then let the floor dry. The next thing is to use an etching cleaner to open the concrete pores so that it will evenly accept the stain.  Etching cleaner will also help to remove stubborn stains that the degreaser didn’t get.  Keep the floor wet as you scrub.  Wear gloves, long sleeves and goggles to protect yourself from the etching solution.  Mix etching solution with water.  Use one part etching solution to three parts water.  Pour onto damp concrete and coat the floor.  Use a stiff bristle brush or broom to scrub the floor evenly for about 10 minutes, making sure that no areas dry while you work.  Rinse with a lot of water.  Let the floor dry completely before applying the stain.  This generally takes about 24 hours. Day 2:  You are ready to apply the first coat.  You will need to dilute one gallon of stain with one pint of water.  Go around the edges and corners of the room with a nylon/polyester bristled paintbrush, applying stain. Work the stain in evenly as you go so that you get a fairly uniform effect.  Apply the rest of the first coat with a roller, working it in as you go. Use full strength, non-diluted stain for the second coat if you want one.  Wait a minimum of two and a half hours after you finish the first coat before you decide.  You may have to wait a little longer if you live in a humid area, up to four hours.  Do not apply the second coat if it is raining outside.  After you are done staining, let the floor dry for 24 hours and do not step on the floor while it is drying. Your garage will be stunningly clean and ready to organize.  To complete the look, get rid of old junk.  Use new containers for storage and invest a little in some garage organization products.  Yard work organizers, tool organizers, ceiling loft hangers, bike hooks, <a onClick=”javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview(‘/outgoing/article_exit_link’);” href=”http://www.roboreel.com”title=”Cord Reel”>cord reel</a> and storage bins can help your garage look nice, neat and organized.  You can do it yourself, without hiring a professional.

Staining is a popular way to bring your garage floor to life.  You can hire professionals to come in and stamp the concrete to give the floor a unique pattern, like marble, stepping stone or even hardwood design, or you can do it yourself.  Choose a stain color that you like and a strong, heavy sealant.  You can turn your old dirty garage floor into a beautiful, shiny, professional looking work area.

First, test the floor for sealant.  When you pour water on it, it will soak in if there is no sealant.  If there is a sealant, your water will bead up and it will not soak in.  If there is sealant present, you will have to get an industrial sealant remover and remove the sealant before you can stain it.

Day 1:  If there is no sealant or if the sealant is removed, you are ready to clean.  After sweeping and vacuuming the floor, you will need to degrease it.  Use a strong degreaser and follow the directions on the container.  Rinse the floor really well before moving on to the next step and then let the floor dry.

The next thing is to use an etching cleaner to open the concrete pores so that it will evenly accept the stain.  Etching cleaner will also help to remove stubborn stains that the degreaser didn’t get.  Keep the floor wet as you scrub.  Wear gloves, long sleeves and goggles to protect yourself from the etching solution.  Mix etching solution with water.  Use one part etching solution to three parts water.  Pour onto damp concrete and coat the floor.  Use a stiff bristle brush or broom to scrub the floor evenly for about 10 minutes, making sure that no areas dry while you work.  Rinse with a lot of water.  Let the floor dry completely before applying the stain.  This generally takes about 24 hours.

Day 2:  You are ready to apply the first coat.  You will need to dilute one gallon of stain with one pint of water.  Go around the edges and corners of the room with a nylon/polyester bristled paintbrush, applying stain. Work the stain in evenly as you go so that you get a fairly uniform effect.  Apply the rest of the first coat with a roller, working it in as you go.

Use full strength, non-diluted stain for the second coat if you want one.  Wait a minimum of two and a half hours after you finish the first coat before you decide.  You may have to wait a little longer if you live in a humid area, up to four hours.  Do not apply the second coat if it is raining outside.  After you are done staining, let the floor dry for 24 hours and do not step on the floor while it is drying.

Your garage will be stunningly clean and ready to organize.  To complete the look, get rid of old junk.  Use new containers for storage and invest a little in some garage organization products.  Yard work organizers, tool organizers, ceiling loft hangers, bike hooks, cord reel and storage bins can help your garage look nice, neat and organized.  You can do it yourself, without hiring a professional.

Cleaning and Maintaining Contract Carpet Tiles

To be suitable for offices, shops or other commercial premises, carpet tiles need to be significantly more resistant to wear and soiling than products bought for the home.  Part of the reason for this is the fact that domestic users tend to be more conscientious about spills, staining and dirt tracked in from outside.  Tiles near the office’s kitchen areas are often repeatedly stained and this will become permanent if not removed, whatever the quality of the floor covering.

http://www.burofloor.com

Your new carpet tiles represent an investment in the presentation of your business.  It makes sense to maximise the visual appeal of that investment, and to make sure it lasts for years.  This article gives some recommendations on keeping them at their best.

Soiling from Outside

Office users rarely wipe their feet on entry as they would at home.  This makes reasonably broad barrier mats an important defence against dirt and grit tracked in from outside.  These mats should be cleaned and/or changed regularly.

Vacuum Cleaning

Bürofloor carpet tiles respond well to cleaning via powerful, industrial vacuum cleaners; the pile is strongly anchored, and the strong suction removes dirt and grit from deep down.  Cut pile carpet tiles are best cleaned using cleaners with driven brushes, while loop pile should be cleaned with suction only.  Where cleaning height is adjustable, the head should be set so that slight resistance can be felt.  Cleaning is most efficient when the head is passed over the surface in two directions at right-angles to each other.

Heavy soiling areas, such as entry corridors, lift waiting areas or reception areas, should be vacuumed daily.

Shampooing

Periodic shampooing will significantly extend the life of carpet tiles.  Done properly it removes the abrasive grit that accumulates at the base of the pile and contributes to wear.  It also freshens the area and may reduce allergies such as some types of hay fever.  The most effective method is by shampoo and hot water flushing.  This not only removes ingrained soiling, but is also effective in flushing out detergent residue.

The covering should not be walked on until completely dry; this can take as much as 24 hours.

Dry Cleaning

This process involves brushing a detergent powder into the carpet and leaving it for around half an hour.  It’s then removed by vacuuming.  In some products this powder is slightly moist, but the vacuuming process is generally sufficient to dry it ready for use.  Instructions for use and storage should be closely followed to avoid hazards.

Staining

Staining can be a frustrating problem in office areas.  Staff education and persuasion may be required to ensure that spillages are reported and resolved as quickly as possible.  Bürofloor commercial carpet tiles are extremely stain-resistant, but neglected staining will inevitably cause permanent damage.

Wet Staining

Many people react to spills of this kind by scrubbing with cloths or tissues.  This does little more than spread the stain.  The correct procedure is to begin by blotting the area with clean dry cloths or absorbent paper towels.  Once as much as possible of the liquid has been removed, the remaining staining should be diluted with water applied with a clean cloth or sponge, working from the edge to the centre of the stain.  Stubborn stains may be easiest to remove if the tile is taken up and washed under a tap.

Copier Toner

One of the most common dry stains in office premises is a copier or printer toner spill.  If you drop most of the contents of the cartridge, don’t immediately reach for the vacuum cleaner!  The powder is so fine that it can go straight through the filter and the localised problem is liberally distributed.  In the case of a large spill it may be necessary to call the copier service company.  Smaller spills shouldn’t be too troublesome for a standard vacuum cleaner.  As long as it’s kept dry and no solvents are used there should be no staining.

Replacement

No carpet tile is invulnerable.  In the case of an indelible stain the only solution is replacement.  Most installations will leave a few tiles over.  Don’t throw them away – they’ll be a better colour match than any new replacements you buy.  An alternative may be to swap the damaged tile with one from a less conspicuous area.

saving money, time and space. The choice is yours, to either have a lightweight carpet sweeper or a bulky, loud vacuum cleaner.

If you want a carpet sweeper of high quality, one of the best choices is a Fuller Brush selection. So, what is a carpet sweeper? It is a floor cleaner that works like a vacuum cleaner but manual. Manual sounds like work, but not with one of these little wonders. They only weigh three or four pounds, unlike that heavy motorized vacuum cleaner. You can push or pull them with virtually no problem and no cord to get tripped up in. Also, manual give you a noise-free environment so you won’t disturb loved ones that are napping, or the pets.

The popularity of the carpet sweeper started when the staff of theater, or hotels wanted to clean messes; but quietly. Carpet sweepers have come to the public as a time saver and energy efficient alternative to conventional cleaning systems.

You’ll find many uses for a carpet sweeper of your own.

You do need to understand that carpet sweepers can’t clean all messes that a motorized vacuum cleaner can. They do wonders for small jobs though, such as potato chip crumbs or pet hair. Of course everyone has 10 times the small messes per day compared to the large messes that take a bulky old vacuum cleaner. With a carpet sweeper you can clean these small messes simply and easily.

How about space saving? A carpet sweeper is ideal for small spaces and they’re portable too. You can move your umbrella out of the way and put your carpet sweeper in. That’s how convenient they are. You can also fold them up for even easier storage.

Saving space is a great concern but how about saving you time. This is possible because you don’t have to lug the heavy vacuum out, find and outlet, vacuum, move to another outlet and re-store. Just pull out your carpet sweeper, push over messes, store and go. You’re also conserving energy by not using that monolithic, energy hog.

You really want one of these carpet sweepers for yourself and you’re wondering which kind to buy. Go steel, never plastic. If you are doing some really vigorous cleaning you could break a plastic model. Think about the brush too. You don’t want to choose a model with a simple brush, a rotating brush is much better. If you choose a really good brand carpet sweeper you know that these models will pick up hair and even dust with their rotor brush because of natural boar bristles. Another important consideration for choosing your carpet sweeper; be sure it folds down flat and is adjustable. This makes it easier to clean under furniture.

A carpet sweeper is a handy cleaning device for anyone. They’ll save you space, time and even money on energy costs.

We all have the best intentions – we make a large dinner and then put the leftovers in the refrigerator to be eaten later. The main problem is that the next day, the leftovers are a little stale and not so fresh, so we toss them out because no one wants to eat stale food. There has to be a better way to keep your leftover foods fresh – and there is. The main ingredient in keeping your leftovers fresh is fridge storage solutions.

There are many storage solutions for your leftovers. These range from the typical plastic tubs to more complex storage items which allow food to air.

Some fruits do not need to be kept in the fridge and fare better if they are stored on the counter. To keep your bananas fresh, look at purchasing a banana hook. A banana hook hangs the bananas up off the counter, preventing age spots and bruises – mimicking the natural habitat of bananas – hanging from a tree. A fruit basket that is open aired (usually made of metal wires) is a great idea for your other fruits and produce. You can put apples, grapes, oranges and more in an open air fruit basket to keep your fruit fresher, longer.

For produce that needs to stay in the refrigerator, look for a produce keeper with a water reservoir and air vents. These features control the moisture that your produce is exposed to and prevents wilting and browning. A produce keeper can keep your produce items fresh for weeks longer.

Another option for produce and left over foods is a vacuum container. With the proper seal, your food can stay fresh much longer than if it is not sealed. Vacuum containers are dishwasher and microwave safe, and can be used in the refrigerator or freezer. Make sure to purchase a clear container so that you can easily see the foods you have stored.

You can even keep your pies as fresh as they were out of the oven with a pie keeper. A pie keeper helps your pies stay fresh and intact, without crushing them during transport or stacking.

Keep your cereals and snacks fresh with a snack dispenser unit. These dispensers are air tight to provide maximum freshness for all your cereals and snacks.

If you have left over bread, be sure to keep it fresh with a bread container. A bread container keeps your loaf of bread from getting moldy. Bread typically becomes moldy when it is exposed to air. A bread keeper is adjustable to hold any size of bread loaf without crushing it.

In order to keep your left over foods fresh as long as possible, be sure that you are storing them appropriately. It is best to store each type of food individually so that you do not have any cross contamination, or soggy foods. What one food needs for moisture, another may not, and therefore you may end up with foods that have too much moisture.

Another important step to keeping left over foods fresh is to package them into the fridge as soon as possible after you have completed your meal. The sooner you can get them into refrigeration, the better. This lessens the amount of degradation that your foods may have by sitting out in the warmer, open air of your home.

Freezer solutions for left over foods are also an option – freezing leftovers into containers is a tradition that has been passed down through the generations. “Waste not, want not”, was the motto of the 30s, and these practices of everything having a use should not be lost today. If you are positive that no one is going to want to eat more turkey again this week, why not store it in the freezer in a freezer safe, air-tight container? That way, in a week or two when you are once again in the mood to eat turkey and you are looking for a quick meal idea, you can pull the left over foods out of the freezer. This allows you to serve them as fresh as they were on the day they were cooked.

Left over foods do not have to be stale, they can be foods that both you and your family enjoy eating as much as you did the day you cooked them. With the proper storage solutions for the refrigerator and freezer, you can store your leftovers and make use of them instead of throwing them away in the garbage.

You too can be a ‘waste not, want not’ family by utilizing your left over foods instead of throwing them away. Throwing food away is throwing money away. Many stores have storage solutions for your leftovers. The containers that you purchase can be used time and time again to save your food and save you money!

Solar domestic hot water systems are among the most popular solar technologies considered by those planning to switch to “greener” technologies or want to reduce their heating bills by making use of a free source. Solar hot water systems differ hugely, depending basically to different climate demands: some are specially designed for moderate and hot climates, and others for colder climates.

Different Solar Systems
Some of these systems use flat-plate collectors, while others use evacuated-tubes collectors and batch collectors.
Flat-plate solar collectors are the most used type of solar panels today. Freezing conditions may limit the efficiency of this kind of collectors.Common flat-plate collectors use a liquid (water, glycol) as the heating fluid.They involve a net of flow tubes (where the water or another heating fluid flows), a dark color absorber plate (to absorb the sunlight heat) and a glazing surface. They also comprise an inlet and an outlet connection. Air flat-plate collectors are less common than liquid collectors. As the name implies, they use air as the heating medium, instead of water or other liquid fluid. Their absorber plates are often metal sheets or layers of screen.
Evacuated-tube solar collectors are made up of a set of parallel glass tubes (solar tubes). They are the best collectors for cloudy and freezing climates and for applications demanding high temperatures (evacuated-tube collectors provide temperatures between 75ºC and 175ºC).Evacuated-tube collectors involve literally a visible set of parallel glass tubes (solar tubes). “Evacuated” means a “vacuum” layer within the tubes, where it is also located heat pipes to absorb solar energy and to transfer it to a liquid medium. The vacuum allows very small heat losses and eliminates the impact of ambient temperatures, making evacuated-tube technology particularly suitable for colder climates.
Some solar systems use pumps (active systems) to move the heating fluid while others are based on gravity or natural convection (passive systems).
In some systems there is anti-freezing fluids (glycol, in colder climates), while others use potable water at the collector level.
Closed-loop solar heating systems do not use water into the collectors. Potable water is pumped to the storage tank but never into the solar collectors. It’s the anti-freezing fluid (often a mixture of water and glycol) that circulates in the solar collectors and through a coil of pipe (in the storage tank) and it is in that coil pipe that the potable water is heated. The anti-freezing supports extremely low temperatures and protects the system from damages caused by severe cold. Glycol should be checked each year and changed regularly every few years (depending on temperatures and glycol quality).
Some systems use integrated tank (the batch solar system) and some use (the thermosyphon system) a storage tank on the top of the collector, while others use auxiliary and backup tanks and well separated storage tanks.
Batch systems do not involve pumps and do no demand a separated storage tank, or anti-freezing, heat exchanger, valves, sensors. A batch panel is typically very similar to a flat-plate collector, with a greater depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm). The water is heated directly in the collector (they are open-loop systems) and no pump is used to move the water (they are passive systems).
Their working principle is very basic: whenever the hot water needs to be stored in the batch system, the water pressure moves the hot water on the top of the batch tank (hot water rises naturally to the top of the batch tank).
Thermosyphon systems in their typical configuration do not have pumps and other controls. They are based on the natural convection principle: hot water rises and cold water sinks. In the case of thermosyphon systems: as the potable water (or a antifreeze fluid, in colder climates) entered into the collector it warms and rises to the top of the collector and to the tank, where it is stored (that’s the reason why tanks are always above the collector).